Museum and Whispers (The one where we are tourists)

Lamu Museum

By now, it was our second week-end in Lamu, and we were planning to go to Malindi. Alas, laziness prevailed, and we decided to postpone that to the next week-end. Instead, we figured we could hang around Lamu and act touristy for once. Which is how (most of) this album came along. It was a good week-end, visiting the Lamu museum, and having a lovely lazy afternoon at Whispers cafe (seriously, best desserts in Kenya, and awesome coffee, and amazing food, and and and!). It was also the first time I took pictures in Lamu, and a very good couple of days altogether.

Next time, about Malindi.

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The last one with field notes

Giggly Jamila

As I already mentioned, I only have field notes for a teeny-tiny part of my stay in Lamu – this is the last post including that. Therefore, from this point onward, the posts will be focused on particular topics, as my memory is fading and I cannot recall precisely what I did when (not that it mattered, anyway). That being said, here’s the update for

July 29In the morning, an older guy who used to be a journalist is visiting Boss. She has to speak very loudly, because he doesn’t hear very well, but one of the coolest things he says refers to a girl who was at the town meeting yesterday. The man asks Boss if the said girl is a Muslim, and Boss replies that she’s not. “But she dresses like a Muslim,” he says. While I do understand that it makes your life easier, as a woman, to be wearing a bui bui and a headscarf when you’re here, I still wouldn’t do it, precisely because of the implications. You wear a bui bui to show that you adhere to a set of values, all the time, every time. You cannot simply wear that on vacation, then go back home and put on your regular clothes. For me, at least, it wouldn’t feel right. And wearing it because you think it makes you look beautiful (when its purpose is precisely to cover you up, not to make you seem hot) is even worse, imo.

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The one where I feel like I’m living in Stars Hollow (or The one with the creepy guy)

Town meeting, the men side

This one goes out to Cristy.

July 25At 2, there’s a “strategical” Save Lamu meeting, and we tag along to see what’s being discussed. Since we are the first to arrive at the office (d’oh, we were there at 2.15-ish – everybody knows that a meeting called for 2 will start the very earliest at 3), we decide to have a quick shopping session at the market. As we’re heading out, there’s a guy in front of the door. He turns out to be the environmental lawyer we’re working with, who arrived from Cape Town the other day. We introduce ourselves (and, since he’s Italian, he has the honor of being the first person here who knows where I come from), and tell him that the meeting is taking place upstairs, then proceed to go do our shopping.

During the meeting, a number of issues are discussed. For instance, we learn that there was a closed meeting with the prime minister and representatives from Lamu, but that the local people did not have a chance to ask questions. Instead, the politicians simply held their own speeches, in a clear-cut uni-directional type of communication. The same went for the public rally, where people were holding up placards protesting the authorities’ lack of transparency. People were asked to put down these signs, apparently by a member of the local community. As we were later discussing with Boss, “back in the day,” one could burn flags at public rallies. Nowadays, you get your right to free speech, in an enclosed space, 1 mile away from the speakers. In order to trust the system, there must first be a functional system, which is lacking here. Civil society’s involvement and actions are a lot more intense, and for good reasons: on the one hand, there are a lot more issues to address here than in the West, and on the other one, Kenya is a young democracy, so it makes sense that almost everyone here is part of an NGO (some even more than one).

The head of the elders’ council had taken notes regarding the PM’s speech. He apparently said that the Lamu port is a blessing, and that the town will become a metropolis. But the local people disagree with that, and really don’t want the port to end up like the Mombasa one, with more Kikuyu people moving here. Lamu people are not trained to work in harbors, to operate cranes, and so on, so the argument of more employment opportunities does not make sense here. It’s no wonder then that no one clapped about the port at the public rally. On the funny note, Read more »

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When we use politicians, they will also use us (The one with a shell from Shela)

Cliché shot of footsteps in the sand

July 21We have a meeting scheduled for the afternoon, and before that we go with J. to the school manager, who is part of the organization we are working for. He gives us a (very) brief overview of the Lamu Town performance. “Our school is always the first in the county…but our county is the last in the country.” Fairly sad, if you ask me, and such a pity. Everyone in Kenya seems to have high hopes from going to school (in Elangata Wuas, all the high-school kids we talked to wanted to become lawyers), but there’s little employment to be found. There’s no comfort in having computer science certificates, if there’s not even electricity in your village, let alone computers. Much like in Romania, the vocational education seems to be looked down upon, and it’s not particularly well thought-out either, so there are a lot of gaps to be filled there.

The school manager asks us to sign in the visitors’ book – I honestly think Kenya may be the main consumer of these things. We’ve been asked to sign them virtually everywhere; from schools to the flower farm…I’m surprised the church didn’t have one, too!

At the meeting, one of the committee members suggests Read more »

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If you fail to plan, you plan to fail (The one where I pretend I’m Dutch)

Beach boys territory

July 19. The first meeting we had with the local organizations went a little less well than expected. The main reason was that one of the older guys who attended was fairly annoying, and quite vocal, so he made le big mess. A good lesson for future meetings – plan ahead. There were 3-4 women at the meeting, but we only heard one of them speaking. When she did, however, she was very eloquent, apparently summing up the whole discussion. Women who are involved in civil society here are extremely strong (dynamite!), because they have to make themselves heard. Looking at her made me think about this whole veil dispute – when ever did Read more »

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From Nairobi to Lamu, and our first days there (The one with Bob Marley)

A first glimpse of Lamu Old Town

Since this is the part where I was still hoping I could keep up a field journal, and since I’m an advocate of honesty, I’ll post here some parts of my field notes (the ones I now deem cool enough). Enjoy!

July 16. Today we flew from Nairobi to Lamu. Our flight from Wilson Airport was at 13.45 and we got there around 11.30…we swept past security control without showing any kind of ID (actually, we never showed anyone any ID…we might as well not have had any). We spent the next 2 hours and 45 minutes on some chairs, right in front of the planes that were operating short flights across the country. Awesome!

For the first time, I feel rather embarrassed by the tourists flying in/from here. First of all because they’re loud. Also, they’ve “seen” Kenya in 2 weeks. Oh, how they talk about Kenyan politics, as if the time they spent at a luxurious lodge in the Mara (to and from where they flew) made them experts! I can’t help but think about the presentation we had in Maji Moto, with the pie graph about where the money from tourism goes. Not to the local people, let me tell you.

There are 5 people on our flight, Read more »

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What about Lamu, what was up with that?

Lamu main jetty, as seen from the museum balcony.

Lamu is this awesome island off the northern coast of Kenya, where I had the privilege of living for five or so weeks. And no, I did not bribe anyone for that, I was just incredibly lucky. In the following posts, I’ll try to give you an overview of the fun parts of my stay there (that is to say, little work-talk). Just briefly, the main purpose of my internship was to assist a local organization in getting funding for a community radio station. To that end, my partner (Karen) and I had to deal with grant proposal writing, to meet with the local youth, and to create a market-study-like survey, regarding radio programming. Busy bees, we were, but we still had a bit of time to enjoy our time, make some friends, and engage in some touristy activities. But more about that in an upcoming post.

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So what were you doing in Kenya in the first place?

Adorable host in Elangata Wuas

See, my uni has this program, called UCU in Africa (UCU stands for University College Utrecht) – official description can be found here. I applied for this last year in October, got a positive response sometime in November, et voila: my summer was all planned out for me.

Five weeks of field course, covering various locations in Kenya, namely: Read more »

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Hello (hi-tech) world!

Well, I’m back from Kenya, to the world of (almost) free Internet, and playing YouTube videos without feeling guilty for using up my quota. It’s been some incredible 77 days in Africa, and I’ve tried to keep in touch as much as possible, but it’s very difficult to tell everyone how things were, and what I did, and everything else. So, I figured I’ll blog it. I’m still trying to figure out wordpress again, but I’m a quick learner with a bit of free time, so it shouldn’t take too long.

See you around! :)

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